I never really understood the expression 'eat dust!', really...until today. In the Amarat neighbourghood, where a lot of expatriates live, the expression is literal: if you walk the streets you DO eat dust, a lot of dust!
Yes, I finally got the corage to go out today. In my first contact with real life Khartoum I chose to go to the supermarket. As soon as I put my feet outside, I had a real strange feeling of being in a totally different world. Dozens of white trucks and cars (mostly UN, Red Cross and cabs) fill the yellow-sandy streets leaving a huge cloud of dust behind. Even with sunglasses it becomes hard to stand the dust..plus the heat, dry and immense, almost unbearable. And I had only walked a few meters..
People, mostly men, walk the streets, run around in cars, motorcycles, trucks and stare at me, selling fresh strawberries and mangoes, offering cab drives.
I continue walking to the busy and large main street where several women, in bright coloured dresses and scarfs, line up selling peanuts and cow-milk. And I continue, trying hard not to be runned-over by one of the drivers, making my way to the supermarket.
Curiosity#1: (almost) all cars are either Hiunday or Toyotta and they all look over-used and old..I assume it must be hard to keep a car clean and good in such a dusty area..
People continue to greet me, offering Gucci and Prada sunglasses and roasted peanuts. I smile and politely say 'no,thank you'.
I finally get to the supermarket and I cannot help but being amazed by the amount of western-type products and brands available. Prices are accessible but the Sudanese pound is not an easy money to use..too many 0000, reminding me of the italian lira, when everything was in millions....Total: 85000 sudanese pouds= 42 USdollars.
Curiosity #2 (or not that curious at all?): there is a police officer in every corner. In their pale blue uniform, differing from the majority of white and couloured clothings, they're not difficult to spot at the distance.
Heading back home, I have the same feeling of strangness, although now with a 5l bottle of water and a handbag of groceries. A sign that I am starting to adapt?...hopefully it is!
Tomorrow is registration day at the Ministry of Interior...I'll let you know how it went.
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